Fri 27 Sept 2013 – Living Aboriginal History at Karijini – meeting Rodney Parker and Wading the Gorge

We were looking forward to a swim (especially as there are no showers) so we set off for Fortescue Falls. There were deep steps down the Gorge and then we followed a path around the bottom and came to a beautiful, fern - lined pool, with 2 waterfalls running onto it. We had a lovely swim and a couple of massages under the waterfalls. There were lots of little fish that nibbled us while we were trying to climb the ladder to get out.

From here we went to the Visitors Centre, where there was a good display of life on a pastoral station, from the Aboriginal point of view.

There were lots of photos and interviews with people about those days, especially a man called Wobby Parker. One of the guys in the photos was Rodney Parker, talking about growing up in Wittenoom and playing at rolling down the hill, through the asbestos dust.

As we were looking, we realised he was there, showing some people around, just ahead of us! We said hello and introduced ourselves and he told us he did the design for the tribal logos used in the Centre and his Dad, Wobby, was one of the Elders. It was a special experience for us to meet him and his wife Cassie, living history!

From here we went across the Park and saw 2 Gorges from the lookout called Joffre and Knox.

We then climbed down Weano Gorge to swim in Handrail Pool. Unfortunately, they didn't think to mention in any of the information that we would have to wade through 2 large pools, 1 very deep and that under the water were sharp little stones. If we'd known, we would have worn our water shoes and it would have been much easier and more comfortable.

As we waded up the Gorge, we came to a very narrow part and then the ground suddenly dropped away in a steep cliff into an almost perfectly round pool. The only way down was clinging to a handrail and feeling with our feet for small ledges of rock - now we understood why it was called Handrail Pool! The disappointing thing was that when we got down, we saw that the water was still and slimy and certainly not good for swimming in .We made it back up again safely and found another pool we could swim in on the way back.

When we were at the Visitor's Centre, we'd seen a Telstra phone and on our way home, it was just the right time to ring Friday Night Group. We also managed to catch Rodger's mum too.

When we got back, we made use of the gas BBQ to cook a whole tray of sausages. This means that our dinner is cooked for a couple of nights, which is good as we'll probably sleep in a lay- by tomorrow because Exmouth, our next destination is about 700kms away.

Thurs 26 Sept 2013 – Karijini National Park – the lost Tea Cup!

We started the day with a swim and leisurely breakfast, then we headed off towards Karajini.

Oh no! I suddenly realized I’d left my cup of tea on a post back at the camping ground. That means I’ve lost my only china cup as well as my Lapsang Soushong – too far to go back though.

There are 2 roads there, one is a private road owned by Rio Tinto and we got a permit for this, so thought we'd try it. However, it was so corrugated that we soon turned round and used the alternative road which was much better. It was pretty boring though, except for a good view of mountains ahead.

On the West side of Karajini there's a gorge called Hammersley. It was amazing, with horizontal layers of different colours, warped and folded, rather like a giant clam shell. We climbed down many steps and over rocks and swam in a lovely clear, cold pool.

It was another 100kms before we got to the Eastern side of the Park and, on the way, we were amazed to see huge irrigation sprinklers going and a crop growing - we haven't seen any arable land since the Southern Flinders Ranges in SA and all around here is a desert of red dust.

A bit further along there was a huge stack of a neatly bailed crop that looked like hay, so we decided that must be what was growing here.

Near the entrance to the Park was Mt Bruce and from there we could look down on the Marandoo mine site, which was part of the National Park until the early 1990s.The WA Government decided to hand it over to Hammersley Mining as the WA economy rests almost entirely on mining and they feared that the nearby Tom Price iron ore was coming to an end.

As we drove here, we saw the trains full of ore going to the ports at Karrutha and Dampier The trains are 2 Kms long and 7 go from the mine every day. They say they can do this for another 17 years before it runs out.

After we set up camp, we met a lady who reminded us of Mrs Duffy. She's just come from Exmouth, where we're going next so she was able to give us lots of information and tips. Rodger's very excited that he'll soon get to surf.

Wed 27 Sept 2013 – Roebuck and on to Millstream, Chichester National Parks

We headed back to the town of Roeborne for a toilet stop and had breakfast in the little park. They have a tiny Visitor's Centre in the old prison but it's the best one we've been to. The staff were so helpful and they have drinking water available and a washing machine. 

We set off inland towards Karijini National Park along an unsurfaced road and then realised that the road took us through another National Park called Millstream Chichester. The road was so pretty with beautiful scenery and lots of wild flowers. The Milstream part of the Park is a wetland, which is unusual in the Pilbara. They take water from here to supply all the local towns with water, it's chlorinated here and then transported in a big pipeline.

Lots of beautiful wildflowers

We visited Python Pool and the Fortesque River

First we visited the old homestead, from when it was a sheep and cattle station. On the wall was a framed drawing of the property done by a 12yr old boy who lived there in the 1930s. 

They've made a walking trail over the property, showing the things on the map, It would have been a really lovely place to live, with plenty of water to drink, swim and irrigate a market garden and a grove of date palms for shade. They even had a tennis court made of crumbled up termite mounds!

The camping area was right next to the river and there was also a fast running creek where we had fun sitting in the rapids. 



Rodger went fishing and caught a huge cat fish of several kilos and over 50cm long - at last a major catch! Unfortunately, although we cooked it in foil, just like the Sooty Grunters, it was as tough as old boots!